"Never mistake motion for action"
- E. Hemingway
I would never have guessed at the start of this little venture that I´d be able to update the blog as often as I have before I even start the Camino. In any case, arrived an hour ago in Pamplona, and will be heading out to Roncesvalles in less than five. In the mean time, I´ve been wandering the streets, backpack and all, looking rather dashing* in my broad-brimmed white tilley hat, taking in the city I´ve read so much about.
Forgot to mention that I had my first encounter with other Camino pilgrims the day before yesterday. Right outside the Guggenheim in fact. From what I could discern (they only spoke broken Spanish, which you think I´d be fluent in), they were an older French couple who were doing the Camino Primitvo (another route of the Camino de Santiago that runs along the coast). I was very surprised at how much stuff they had with them; their backpacks were huge. Which got me thinking that I should be ok...after all, they had heavier backpacks, they were considerably older, and considerably Frencher (I don´t even know what I mean by that). Here´s hoping, anyway. I wished them a Buen Camino and let them go their way. Who knows, I might even run into them when I get to Santiago, or Astorga, where all the camino paths link up.
The bus ride up here was interesting; the mountains here are massive. Not massive as in the Canadian rockies, but massive as in "holy crap, I have to walk across that?!?". Well, not for a couple of days anyway. Pamplona´s a sleepy little town that apparently only wakes up one week per year. I know this is where the San Fermines and the running of the bulls happens, but right now, it´s really hard to imagine this town going all ape-shit like that. Seems so peaceful and calm. I guess they got it all out of their system this past July. Made it up (and up, and up) to the cathedral just now to see if I could get my Credencial (pilgrim passport). No luck, it´s locked up tight. I´ll try again in a bit; otherwise, I can just as easily get it in Roncesvallees.
Next update will see me on the camino, and will likely have a bit of a change in format. I´ll be writing (pen-and-paper like) all the while I´m walking, and just transcribe what I´ve written to the blog. I leave out or forget too many things when I´m summarizing like I have in the last few entries. So, until then...and I genuinely have no idea when "then" will be...take care and talk to you all soon.
*for the purposes of this blog, "Dashing" has been re-defined to mean "fat, stupid, and out of place"
Thursday, August 31, 2006
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
Bilbao
"every day´s an endless stream
of cigarettes and magazines"
-Paul Simon
This is my first time in Bilbao since 2002, and I have to say...I´m impressed. When Amalia forced me to come here last time (inside joke - ask her for details), we found a grimy, industrial town that was really not especially appealing. What a difference 4 years have made; it´s almost as if the entire city was scrubbed clean since the last time I was here. Even the Catedreal de Santiago in the old part of the city, which I remember as being a dark grey is now an almost-brilliant white. What seemed like a sleepy little downtown core last time, is positively cosmopolitan now. All in all, it gives the impression of a city on the move, keen on shedding some remnants of it´s past.
Went to the Guggenheim yesterday, and while there I developed a theory. The theory is that all visual art, with the possible exception of architecture, has only one purpose - to make me feel like a philistine. Seriously, I just don´t understand it at all. I could only do so much walking around thinking "oh, that´s....weird". Once again - I just don´t get it.
I´ve often been accused of saying things about people or objects that ruin people´s perception of them. Well, for everyone I´ve ever done that to, good news - I did it to myself yesterday. The Guggenheim had a special exhibition of Russian art on display, from the 9th century onwards. Soon as I saw the sign announcing the special exebition, all I could hear was Yakov Smirnov´s voice saying "In Russia, paintings look at you". It made me chuckle all the way through the exhibit, and earned me some strange glances from the self-appointed art aficionado´s. Granted, showing amusement at a picture of Stalin isn´t exactly normal, but their reaction to me only made it funnier.
Was going to head down to Guernika today to do a bit of a walk-around, but 1) I slept in and missed the bus and 2)I'll probably be coming back here after I walk the Camino (In Russia, Camino walks on you!). On that note, heading to Roncesvalles tomorrow and will start the walk the day after. Looking forward to it with some trepidation, but at least I know that I won´t be injured to start it. I might as well mention now, since I´m all better, that I gave my ankle a nasty twist after the last blog entry, while heading to Covent Gardens for some dinner. Fortunately my boots protected me from any major injury, and I got away with just a small strain. Still hurt like hell at the start though.
So, 1.5 days until the Camino, and until this blog starts in earnest. Hope you'll all check in from time to time (haven´t recieved any e-mails or blog entries, so I don´t even know if anyone´s out there). ´til next time...
of cigarettes and magazines"
-Paul Simon
This is my first time in Bilbao since 2002, and I have to say...I´m impressed. When Amalia forced me to come here last time (inside joke - ask her for details), we found a grimy, industrial town that was really not especially appealing. What a difference 4 years have made; it´s almost as if the entire city was scrubbed clean since the last time I was here. Even the Catedreal de Santiago in the old part of the city, which I remember as being a dark grey is now an almost-brilliant white. What seemed like a sleepy little downtown core last time, is positively cosmopolitan now. All in all, it gives the impression of a city on the move, keen on shedding some remnants of it´s past.
Went to the Guggenheim yesterday, and while there I developed a theory. The theory is that all visual art, with the possible exception of architecture, has only one purpose - to make me feel like a philistine. Seriously, I just don´t understand it at all. I could only do so much walking around thinking "oh, that´s....weird". Once again - I just don´t get it.
I´ve often been accused of saying things about people or objects that ruin people´s perception of them. Well, for everyone I´ve ever done that to, good news - I did it to myself yesterday. The Guggenheim had a special exhibition of Russian art on display, from the 9th century onwards. Soon as I saw the sign announcing the special exebition, all I could hear was Yakov Smirnov´s voice saying "In Russia, paintings look at you". It made me chuckle all the way through the exhibit, and earned me some strange glances from the self-appointed art aficionado´s. Granted, showing amusement at a picture of Stalin isn´t exactly normal, but their reaction to me only made it funnier.
Was going to head down to Guernika today to do a bit of a walk-around, but 1) I slept in and missed the bus and 2)I'll probably be coming back here after I walk the Camino (In Russia, Camino walks on you!). On that note, heading to Roncesvalles tomorrow and will start the walk the day after. Looking forward to it with some trepidation, but at least I know that I won´t be injured to start it. I might as well mention now, since I´m all better, that I gave my ankle a nasty twist after the last blog entry, while heading to Covent Gardens for some dinner. Fortunately my boots protected me from any major injury, and I got away with just a small strain. Still hurt like hell at the start though.
So, 1.5 days until the Camino, and until this blog starts in earnest. Hope you'll all check in from time to time (haven´t recieved any e-mails or blog entries, so I don´t even know if anyone´s out there). ´til next time...
Sunday, August 27, 2006
London II
This'll be really quick, as I'm rapidly running out of time (see previous day's entry for song lyrics, etc. I'm still in the same place after all).
Still enjoying London...one thing I forgot to mention yesterday is how strangely familiar everything in this city is. I'd normally chalk it up to all the signage, etc., being in a language that I understand, but that's not it. Guess it has something to do with the fact that this city has been the capitol of the English-speaking world for the last few hundred years (sorry New York). At least since they stopped speaking French anyway.
Feel kind of bad about yesterday's "stolen goods" comment...didn't mean to imply any criminality, or that this is a nation of thieves...but after seeing the British Museum today, I *am* prepared to say that they're masters of the art of looting. Some truly amazing stuff in there from pre-history right up to the present. Some willingly given up, some...not so much. It's weird though - I'm all for museums, they provide a valuable service by preserving the past, but the exhibits all seem out of place...it's like randomly quoting pieces of great literature: The individual pieces may still be great, but they lack the context of the whole. I suppose I could supply my own context by learning my history a bit better (or making shit up in my head, whichever), but the displays while great seem so...sterile without the historical context.
Flying into Bilbao tomorrow, and I owe another museum a visit - the guggenheim. Not really looking forward to that. As little as I know about history, I know literally nothing about art. That's it for today...running out of internet credits, and the rather large man 3 seats down has run out of food and is eyeing me in a way that's making me nervous. In any case, more to come. 3 full days until the Camino starts.
Still enjoying London...one thing I forgot to mention yesterday is how strangely familiar everything in this city is. I'd normally chalk it up to all the signage, etc., being in a language that I understand, but that's not it. Guess it has something to do with the fact that this city has been the capitol of the English-speaking world for the last few hundred years (sorry New York). At least since they stopped speaking French anyway.
Feel kind of bad about yesterday's "stolen goods" comment...didn't mean to imply any criminality, or that this is a nation of thieves...but after seeing the British Museum today, I *am* prepared to say that they're masters of the art of looting. Some truly amazing stuff in there from pre-history right up to the present. Some willingly given up, some...not so much. It's weird though - I'm all for museums, they provide a valuable service by preserving the past, but the exhibits all seem out of place...it's like randomly quoting pieces of great literature: The individual pieces may still be great, but they lack the context of the whole. I suppose I could supply my own context by learning my history a bit better (or making shit up in my head, whichever), but the displays while great seem so...sterile without the historical context.
Flying into Bilbao tomorrow, and I owe another museum a visit - the guggenheim. Not really looking forward to that. As little as I know about history, I know literally nothing about art. That's it for today...running out of internet credits, and the rather large man 3 seats down has run out of food and is eyeing me in a way that's making me nervous. In any case, more to come. 3 full days until the Camino starts.
Saturday, August 26, 2006
London
"Sailing downstairs to the Northern line
watching the shine of his shoes"
-Nick Drake
Managed to make it into London ok yesterday, albeit a little (make that a lot) tired. Heathrow was surprisingly hassle-free, considering I'm made of approximately 70% liquid. Took the udnerground from the airport to the hotel, which is quite large (number of rooms-wise). The room I'm in, however is the approximate dimensions of a shoebox. Maybe two. Three at most. It's well located though - right in front of the Savoy Theatre...very central for sightseeing. Speaking of which...
When I first came to this internet cafe several hours ago, I was going to lead off by saying that London's a terriffic town, provided you're willing to not eat. I've since changed my mind after an awesome meal over in Greenwich. I love this town...not as much as, say, Madrid, but I'm hoping we can still be friends. I admit it...I've always had a soft spot for the English; their skill with backhanded compliments, the way they get all uppity when you accuse them of having an accent, even the way they insist on re-arranging these damn keyboards so I can't find any of the f***ing symbols that I need. Despite that last one, they're altogether my kind of people (reverse not necessarily true).
When I first got into the city, I noticed that they've painted "look left" or "look right" on the roead in front of all the pedestrian crossings. I thought to myself "what kind of idiot would need those instructions?". Turns out they put them there just for me. Yup, even after a couple of close encounters, first with a bus (that would have hurt), and then with a mini (hah - I outweighed that thing by like 20 pounds), I still always manage to instinctively look the wrong direction. Story of my life I guess
Not that this was much of an update, but I might have another tomorrow - not sure. Heading to the British Mueseum to look over the stolen goods, and then to the Tower of London to do some Raven-chasing.
Oh, by popular demand, I'm turning comments on, but keeping them moderated. Don't need for my family to see what kind of clowns (trying to be nice) some of my friends are. I'm looking at you, Sheldon, Gord and Kevin
watching the shine of his shoes"
-Nick Drake
Managed to make it into London ok yesterday, albeit a little (make that a lot) tired. Heathrow was surprisingly hassle-free, considering I'm made of approximately 70% liquid. Took the udnerground from the airport to the hotel, which is quite large (number of rooms-wise). The room I'm in, however is the approximate dimensions of a shoebox. Maybe two. Three at most. It's well located though - right in front of the Savoy Theatre...very central for sightseeing. Speaking of which...
When I first came to this internet cafe several hours ago, I was going to lead off by saying that London's a terriffic town, provided you're willing to not eat. I've since changed my mind after an awesome meal over in Greenwich. I love this town...not as much as, say, Madrid, but I'm hoping we can still be friends. I admit it...I've always had a soft spot for the English; their skill with backhanded compliments, the way they get all uppity when you accuse them of having an accent, even the way they insist on re-arranging these damn keyboards so I can't find any of the f***ing symbols that I need. Despite that last one, they're altogether my kind of people (reverse not necessarily true).
When I first got into the city, I noticed that they've painted "look left" or "look right" on the roead in front of all the pedestrian crossings. I thought to myself "what kind of idiot would need those instructions?". Turns out they put them there just for me. Yup, even after a couple of close encounters, first with a bus (that would have hurt), and then with a mini (hah - I outweighed that thing by like 20 pounds), I still always manage to instinctively look the wrong direction. Story of my life I guess
Not that this was much of an update, but I might have another tomorrow - not sure. Heading to the British Mueseum to look over the stolen goods, and then to the Tower of London to do some Raven-chasing.
Oh, by popular demand, I'm turning comments on, but keeping them moderated. Don't need for my family to see what kind of clowns (trying to be nice) some of my friends are. I'm looking at you, Sheldon, Gord and Kevin