Day 1: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

"To everything there is a season
a time for every purpose under the sky"
Ecclesiastes 3:1

8:00 am: Just about to head out; the bus here was packed, and predictably, so was the refugio in Roncesvalles. Went to the traditional pilgrim´s mass last night at 8:00, and the communal dinner afterwards, where I did manage to meet a few people. Liane and Laura from Sydney, Derek and Andy from Brisbane. We talked about meeting up this morning to head out together, but so far no sign of them. Might as well get started. Didn´t sleep last night, partly because of the anticipation, and partly because of the snoring (for once, not mine). Anyways, here goes nothing...
9:30 am: Unreal...two hours so far before I had my first coffee. That sets a new personal record for me. Ended up bumping into the aussies in Espinal, which is the first little village outside of Roncesvalles. Walked for a bit together, but they all walked too fast for my comfort level. I´ll meet up with them (or not) later, I´m sure.
1:15 pm: Ouch. This is not easy. I think I did the right thing by starting in Roncesvalles. As up and down as the road from here is, it´s prevailing direction is down. You really feel the "up" parts though. Crossing the Pyranees would have done me in for sure. As it is, the road to Zubiri goes directly over the top of one of these mountains, and it´s positively killing me. Every time you think the road can´t possibly go any higher, you turn a corner and it does. All this in 33 degree heat. It´s tough to even stop in the shady spots, ´cause the flies swarm you as soon as you do. It´s almost as if they´re asking "Are you dead yet? Can we lay our eggs now? How about now, are you dead yet?". Sheesh.
2:15 pm: Reached the top. One foot in front of the other...rest often...drink often. That´s 16 brutal km down, and 4 more to go. Rest is downhill to Zubiri, so at least I´ll have gravity on my side.
3:45 pm: Gravity sucks. Clambering down a steep, steep slope with tired legs, weak knees and aching feet is almost as hard as climbing. Resting halfway down right now - should be in Zubiri within the hour. Going to check into the hostal and sleep like a baby.
4:15pm: Both refugio´s are full, but I managed to get a bed...well, a space on the floor in a jai alai court anyway. Can´t tell me Navarra´s not part of the basque country. No sign of the Aussies, but they´ve prolly gone on to Logroño. Shame really, they seemed like a lot of fun.
9:00pm: Just had dinner with the nicest retired Spanish couple, José Luis and Aurora. Apparently, they have a son who is about the same age as they thought I was (under 35 is all I got...Yes!). Luis is apparently some kind of amateur historian, and was all over the place talking about the history of the Camino and the Iberian peninsula. Was very entertaining, and also forced me to communicate in Spanish. By the end of it, I was very comfortable with it, even though I only have the vocabulary of a small Spanish dog. On the plus side, everyone is surprised how I don´t appear to have any kind of accent when I do speak Spanish, so I have that in my favor anyway. Time to turn in. Hopefully get as far as Pamplona tomorrow.