"De colores,
de colores me gustan los campos en la primavera"
Joan Baez (I think)
11:00 am: After the brutality of yesterday´s climbing, today comes as a somewhat welcome relief. My guidebook says that it should be a level track from here to Pamplona, and so far it´s not too bad. Some hills, certainly, but not nearly as relentless as yesterday´s grind. Had to be out of the refugio by 08:00 today, and headed out just before that. Second night in a row that I´ve had little sleep. When I get to Pamplona, I´ll see if I can get a small hotel room and stay an extra night. If I get there, I´ll have earned it.
2:00pm: I´m very disappointed with the accuracy of my guidebook. Almost immediately after the last entry, the path started a steep ascent that seemed to never end. Strangely, even though the hills are just as steep and long, and my backpack is even heavier today (more water), I´m managing a lot better today. Amazing how quickly the human body adapts to abuse. Ran into José Luis and Aurora by an idyllic little spot by the river Arre. From the sounds of it, most of the peregrinos are staying in Trinidad de Arre tonight. Sounds like a plan...Pamplona is an additional 5.5km further on, and I doubt my feet will get me there tonight.
5:00pm: The refugio in Arre is fantastic. It´s a converted building that appears to have been the rectory of the church it´s attached to. Inside is clean, comfortable and a little crowded (in a good way). It also has a closed off section specifically for snorers. Reluctantly, I fessed up to my propensity to snore, and I was promptly banished there. In an upper bunk no less. Now I have to deal with snorers and acrophobia in order to sleep. Still, I´d rather be in this spot than the poor lady in the bunk beneath me...waiting for the bed frame to collapse on her. A modern day rendition of Damocles. Between the church and the refugio there´s a garden that´s walled off from the outside for the use of the refugio. It´s a tiny green paradise in the middle of a hot and dusty Camino. Great place to hang about and socialize. In fact, I think I´ll do that now.
9:00pm: Just about to crash for the night. Tomorrow, I´m going as far as Pamplona, and then taking time to enjoy the city. Also have stuff to do there, like cash my travellers cheques, and mail forward some items from my backpack. It´s too heavy - I realize that now. Met a number of interesting people in the Refugio today from many different backgrounds. There´s Cecile from France, but currently working in Vancouver. Osa, from Norway who´s only on the Camino for a week and doesn´t speak a word of Spanish (didn´t have the heart to tell her that her name translates to She-Bear in Spanish). Jorge, also from Segovia, who seems nice - if a little strange. A whole cartload of Quebeçois who all snore (and hence share my gulag), and a young family from Barcelona who are only doing the camino for a few days. Interesting bunch. I wonder which ones I´ll be seeing again once I spend the extra day in Pamplona. Short hike tomorrow; should be a welcome respite.
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