"Have you come here for forgiveness
have you come to raise the dead?
have you come here to play Jesus
to the lepers in your head?"
-U2
The Alto del Perdón..."the peak of forgiveness" was the name of the mountain outside Pamplona that I was dreading. As it turns out, the crossing was rough, but not especially difficult by my new standards. Fantastic views from up there - on one side, the valley that Pamplona´s in, and on the other, another valley showing the next few cities that were on the agenda. On the way down from the peak, I ran into two young kids; couldn´t have been more than 14 on bicycles, crouching in the shade. Turns out that they were both from Pamplona, but one of them had done an excange program in Orangeville (poor kid). Anyways, we chatted for a bit before I went on my way. As I was leaving, he called out "Excuse me...why are you doing this, the camino?". From the mouths of babes...I had to admit that I had no idea why I was doing the camino, and that I was hoping I´d figure that out on the way. It got me thinking though...what´s the deal? Why am I doing this? So many possibilities...to forget or to remember; to forgive or find forgiveness; to lose myself or to find my way. No easy answers unfortunately, but I´m hoping I´ll know the questions by the time I´m done here.
The deeply forested mountains of the Basque country are gradually spreading out, leaving wide undulating valleys of vineyards and farmland. It´s quite beautiful in a pastoral kind of way, although the stretches of farmland leave shade at a premium. And it´s been hot...apparently, the hottest September so far on record in Navarra. Got up to 36 today, and that is murder when you´re walking in the sun during mid-day. Took a detour to a little church in the middle of nowhere called "La Virgen de Eunate". The church was built in the 12th century, but no-one seems to be sure by whom. Knights Templars, the local populace, aliens...who knows? It was very beautiful though, if a little remote.
Covered 26 km today...by the end of it, I was wiped and checked into an albergue just outside of Puente la Reina. It´s a bit of a dive, but it does the trick. Bumped into Cecile from France, who I met in Trinidad de Arre. Only reason I caught up with her is because she was sidelined with a case of tendinitis in her knee. Anyways, bought her a beer, shared a smoke, and talked for a bit before we both had to get to sleep. She´s staying another night in Puente la Reina. I´m hoping to run into her again, she was a lot of fun to talk to.
Recieved some sad news later this night night. One of my uncles passed away while I was in Pamplona. I´ll always remember my Tio Iñaki as a kind and gentle man, who always seemed to be smiling, and just on the verge of bursting out in laughter. I remember visiting him in Vancouver several years ago, and how he doted on his kids and his grandchildren. Above all, he was a good man, and one who will be missed terribly. The world of all our family were enriched by his life, and everything seems a little grayer and duller with his passing. My thoughts wander to his wife and his children even as I walk. If I make it to Santiago, it´ll be for him and for them.
Buén Camino, Tito Iñaki.
No comments:
Post a Comment